DARWIN DRY SEASON HIGHLIGHTS
- associate.x
- Sep 4, 2023
- 13 min read
Updated: Sep 14, 2023
It always feels like summer in Darwin. Visit in the dry season (May to September) when the weather is predictably hot, the rainfall is non-existent and there is an endless list of roaring waterfalls and turquoise pools open to cool off in. After some very serious research, I finally present my itinerary for Darwin in the dry season.
1. MINDIL BEACH SUNSET MARKET
Darwin has a bustling street food culture and the sunset markets at Mindil Beach is the very best of the food markets. Pair a sunset view with your choice of any street food imaginable here on a Thursday or Sunday evening. I had originally aimed to try every single food but quickly came to realise that the best food was the potato spiral from Spiral Time and laksa from Darwin Laksa. The Special Gado Gado with satay sticks from Sari Rasa Sate is also wildly popular and sells out early. Take a seat on the sand, enjoy your meal and experience the weird tradition of applauding the sun for setting.
2. EAT LAKSA
Because I'm Malaysian, I am probably biased in saying that curry laksa is one of the greatest foods in the world. Luckily, Darwin agrees with me and laksa stalls are rife at the local markets. Darwin is so close to South East Asia after all! There is even a competitive laksa festival every year. Past winners include Mary's Laksa at the Parap markets and Chok's Place in the CBD.
Laksa is a sweet and spicy coconut gravy noodle soup traditionally eaten earlier in the day for breakfast, before the tropical heat really kicks in. The Darwin version is a milder fusion-style, but you can add a good hit of fresh chilli if you prefer a spicy kick. You can also top with spring onions, shallots, bean sprouts and peanuts (big yes to all) which are always available for self-service at the laksa stand. You will find a variety of different options on menu including prawn, seafood, chicken and vegetarian. It's hard to choose but if I could recommend one, I would go for the prawns!
Everyone has their favourite laksa. My hot recommendations are Alberto's Cave in the CBD and Darwin Laksa at the Mindil Beach Sunset Markets (Thursday and Sunday evenings).
3. DINNER & DRINKS AT THE SUNSET CLUBS
Head to either Darwin Ski Club, Darwin Sailing Club or Darwin Trailer Boat Club for dinner and drinks against a captivating sunset backdrop. Tips: (1) The fish tacos at Trailer Boat Club. (2) Arrive well before sunset to reserve a table close to the water (they don't take bookings from non-club members).
4. SUNSET CRUISE
Cruise into the sunset sipping champagne, indulging on freshly caught fish and chips or feasting on a three course dinner. Some cruises let you bring your own picnic on board. Whichever option you choose, sunset cruises are usually extravagant and unforgettable.
5. DECKCHAIR CINEMA
This Darwin's outdoor cinema featuring a mixed program of art house, classic and latest blockbuster films every night. Check out the program here. You can purchase alcohol, popcorn and locally produced snacks at the bar. Hot food is available before the movie. Go early and dine as the sun sets into a canvas of pink and purple strokes. Tips: When you arrive, grab a cushion and place it on a seat to save it before you line up for any food, because the cinema can get very busy. Load up on mosquito spray.
6. SEE A WILD CROC ON A JUMPING CROC TOUR
Take a guided boat ride along the croc-infested Adelaide River for an up-close and personal view of the largest living reptile, the salt-water crocodile. You probably don't want to see a wild crocodile in any other context. A croc will usually ambush its prey and then drown or swallow it whole. The guides here bring bait for the crocodiles to lure them to the boat and you can see the crocodiles jump out of the water and hear the sickening snap of their jaws as they lock onto the fresh meat.
There are shuttle options available from Darwin.
Choose between the rival tour companies:
Hamish and Andy are currently investigating the history of their rivalry on their 2023 podcast episodes.
7. PARAP MARKETS ON SATURDAY
This busy morning market is a popular meeting place for locals on a Saturday morning. The little village square is filled with food trucks, fresh fruit and fruit juices and local goods. It is home to the famous Mary's Laksa and Sari Rasa Sate (come early before the special gado gado sells out). Tip: Bring cash because a lot of the vendors do not have credit card facilities.
8. SWIM WITH CROCS AT CROCOSAURUS COVE
Even though it's pricey, coming face-to-face with the Territory's apex predator is a once in a lifetime experience. At Crocosaurus Cove, the Cage of Death is lowered into clear crocodile waters and we watched as the crocodile circled us. The crocodile was also fed by trainers while we were in the water and we heard the thundering crunch of crocodile's jaw snapping right in front of us.
9. MINDIL BEACH CASINO POOL
The Mindil Beach Casino pool gives strong Bali Beach Club vibes on Friday to Sunday afternoons. Entry is free and there is a great view of the ocean and sunset from the pool. My favourite part is that hot food and cool drinks get delivered to you while you're swimming. I live for their calamari rings. Tip: Arrive as soon as the pool opens to snag a coveted poolside deckchair and avoid the long mid-afternoon lines.
10. DAILY SUNSETS
Try not to miss the sun setting gloriously over Darwin every night. Wait until after the sun goes down at these sunset spots to see the sky light up with pinks and purples and oranges:
NIGHTCLIFF JETTY
Order takeaway from the revolving line up of food trucks and perch yourself on the iconic Nightcliff cliffs. I recommend Curled ice cream on Thursday to Saturday.
CULLEN BAY
I swear the colours of the sunset are the best here, but no one really goes for the food. There is a great sunset yoga class on Wednesdays.
EAST POINT FORESHORE
There are sometimes food vans here on the weekend but otherwise food options are limited, but this is a popular area for an evening stroll on the beachside walking track or a quiet picnic on the rocks. I love the purples and pinks in the sky contrasting against the shadows of the native pandanas trees.
PLACES TO EAT
For your meal planning, here is my list of approved eateries:
Alberto’s Cave (Laksa and toasties), Darwin CBD
Alfonsino’s (Pizza), Darwin CBD
Cater Me (Banh Mi), Winnellie
Chakoro Sushi, Darwin CBD
Chook Shed (Chicken & Chips), Stuart Park
Curled (Ice cream), Nightcliff
Darwin Laksa (Laksa), Mindil Beach Sunset Market
Darwin Sailing Club (Dinner), Fannie Bay
Darwin Ski Club (Dinner), Fannie Bay
Darwin Trailer Boat Club (Dinner), Fannie Bay
De La Plage (Brunch), Casuarina
Il Piatto (Italian), Mindil Beach Casino
Klimataria Greek Restaurant (Greek), Stuart Park
Medee Eatery (Thai), Fannie Bay
Moorish Cafe (Middle Eastern), Darwin CBD
Pokelicious (Poke Bowl), Darwin CBD
Sari Rasa Sate (Gado Gado & Satay), Mindil Beach Sunset Market/Parap Market
Sari Rasa (Indonesian bain marie lunch), Darwin CBD
Spiral (Potato spirals), Mindil Beach Sunset Market
ROAD TRIPS FROM DARWIN
The real attractions up in the Top End of Australia are the collection of crystal clear waterfalls and swimming holes tucked away in the national parks at Litchfield, Nitmiluk and Kakadu. You will need to hire a car or alternatively, just sign up for the (overpriced) day-trip tour company located outside the Visitor Information Centre on Bennett Street in the CBD. A 2WD will usually do the job with the exception of Kakadu where you will need a 4WD. Grab a map or plan your route in advance because you will lose reception from about 25 minutes outside of the Darwin CBD.
LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK
Litchfield is nature's theme park with swimming holes galore and is only 1.5 hours drive from Darwin. You can camp there overnight (book in advance here) or simply do a day trip from Darwin (there is limited hotel accommodation). Most major stops are fairly close together and easily accessible by 2WD. The camping sites and popular swimming spots (like Florence Falls, Buley Rockhole and Wangi Falls) can get very busy during weekends and peak tourist periods so I've tried to recommend other destinations that may be a little more secluded and peaceful.
If you are only going for a day trip, I would just pick one or two of the below recommendations. I recommend these combinations due to proximity:
Option A - Greenant Creek (1) and/or Walker Creek (2) and/or Cascades (8)
Option B - Florence Falls (3), Buley Rockhole (4) and the walk in between (5)
Option C - Sandy Creek (6) and Surprise Creek Falls (7)
1. GREENANT CREEK (TJAEBA FALLS)
Hike up a short uphill track across Greenant Creek and swim in the beautiful infinity pool at the top of Tjaeba Falls. I recommend this because the walk in means that it can be less busy but the swimming area is very small and can feel crowded quickly so go early.
2. WALKER CREEK
Walker Creek is a lesser-known and underrated swimming attraction because it is better known amongst locals as a camping destination. You can still visit Walker Creek for the day. Each of the secluded eight camping sites can be booked and are situated along the creek, offering private pool access. Campsite 6 is the public area which has a small (but usually quiet) waterfall and swimming pool. As long as there are no campers at the other campsites, I think it's fair game to dip in wherever you please. There is often no one else around.
3. FLORENCE FALLS
For an up close view of the most powerful waterfalls in Litchfield, swim in the deep plunge pool at Florence Falls. This is the top attraction at Litchfield and can be very crowded for the best part of the day, although it can quieten down significantly just before sunset. If you decide to stay, there is a campsite here that offers showers, flushing toilets and a sink - and access to the falls via a descending staircase.
4. BULEY ROCKHOLE
Relax in the sun amongst the cascades and then cool off by jumping into the small plunge pool. Because there is almost no walking required, it is another popular swimming spot that can feel a bit too much like the local swimming pool on a busy day. It was only later in about November and on a quiet weekday that I was able to appreciate the beauty of Buley Rockhole.
5. WALK AND SWIM FROM FLORENCE FALLS TO BULEY ROCKHOLE
If Florence Falls and Buley Rockhole are packed, take to the nearby walking path that connects the two swimming holes. The flat paved path is clearly marked and you don't have to walk very far along the path in either direction to a find a peaceful and quiet place to swim.
6. SANDY CREEK (TJAYNERA FALLS)
If you're lucky enough to have a 4WD, a trip through river crossings on the Reynolds Track will lead you to two of Litchfield's most beautiful and less accessible swimming holes - Tjaynera Falls and Suprrise Creek. Follow a moderate walking track (no hiking experience required) to Tjaynera Falls which anecdotally is the coldest swimming hole in the Top End. Camping available.
7. SURPRISE CREEK FALLS
Only accessible by 4WD, past Tjaynera Falls. Scramble up the rock formations and jump into the two deep blue plunge pools. Dry off in the hot sun and repeat.
8. CASCADES
A rugged and rocky 3.5km loop walk that leads to shallow rock pools (upper cascades) that flow into a small waterfall (lower cascades). The upper and lower cascades are located on a loop track and you won't have to return to the starting point to access the other trail.
9. WANGI FALLS
Don't bother swimming at Wangi Falls. It is frequently closed due to saltwater crocodile sightings. Someone got attacked by a crocodile in July 2023. Another friend told me that her friends saw freshwater crocs swimming in the falls amongst people when she visited (the kind that don't eat humans). Even when it is open for swimming, it is overrun by people and pool noodles. However, if Wangi Falls is closed for swimming, it is worth visiting to admire the impressive waterfall from the viewing platform - without the people and pool noodles.
KATHERINE / NITMILUK NATIONAL PARK
It is worth setting aside 3-4 days to visit arguably the most beautiful and unique part of the Top End.
1. EDITH FALLS
Take the 2.5 hour drive out from Darwin to visit the incredible Edith Falls. There's very little phone reception so download your favourite podcasts and albums for the drive and stop by the lively Adelaide River Inn for a meal, a stretch and some phone signal.
Take the rocky 1 km walk up to the tranquil and main attraction, the beautiful Upper Falls, which is a croc-free swimming area all year round. There is also a huge, deep plunge pool at the base of the Lower Falls for swimming. You can peek at the crocodile trap for peace of mind but I always thought the Lower Falls look like a croc's paradise. Camp at Edith Falls or keep driving onto the town of Katherine for accommodation.
Above: Upper Falls at Edith Falls
2. KATHERINE GORGE/NITMILUK
Katherine's big draw card is the set of 13 glorious gorges of Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge). To me, it is the most beautiful place to visit up here. You can explore the gorge by foot, boat, canoe or helicopter. Cruising through the gorge by boat and canoe was incredible. The Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Tour was an engaging guided cruise through the gorge and rock art sites, capped off by a feast at sunset. This was one of the most beautiful experiences I had in the Territory.
The boat cruises only go through the first few gorges and you can explore further by canoe. When you continue paddle out through the majestic cliff faces, there are countless swimming spots, beaches and rocks to jump off the further you get along. You might swim amongst turtles and freshwater crocodiles (apparently they are not dangerous! I only believed it when I saw one from the boat and inspected their small snouts up close and decided I would not fit inside). You will need a full day canoe hire to not feel rushed and can be booked in advance to avoid missing out. There is also a two-day canoe option which allows you to camp on the beach. I would just warn that we spent a lot of energy dragging our canoe full of heavy camping gear over the rocky portions of the gorge!
There are also a couple of walks (Baruwei Lookout and Pat's Lookout) where you can get a good view of the gorge from above, but pack lots of water because hiking in the sun gets hot!
3. BITTER SPRINGS AND MATARANKA SPRINGS
Bitter Springs is the premier thermal springs in the Mataranka area (not to be confused with Mataranka Springs). With its crystal clear pools and emerald green mossy banks, this natural lazy river is straight out of a water park. While stunning, Bitter Springs gets very busy due to being easily accessible and free, so go early. Take a pool noodle or flotation device and drift in the warm current. Even though I'm a strong swimmer, the water is deep and the river is long so it's more relaxing with a floatie.
Mataranka Springs are worth a stop by if you are in the area but they don't compare to the beauty of Bitter Springs. Although completely natural, these smaller, shallower springs somehow feel more like a hotel pool than natural wonder. They do offer more shade as the day gets warmer so relocate to Mataranka Springs when it gets too hot at Bitter Springs.
4. KATHERINE HOT SPRINGS
Free and seriously underrated crystal clear thermal springs right in town. The water warms up to about 25-30 degrees and is blissful early in the morning before it gets too crowded and too warm in the day. Importantly for fashion purposes, no pool noodles are needed here and you can drift down the current effortlessly.
KAKADU NATIONAL PARK
Kakadu is the furtherest and most remote of the national parks, but you will be rewarded with special sunsets in ancient landscapes, intriguing Aboriginal rock art and refreshing crystal clear swimming holes. 3-4 days and a 4WD or AWD are needed for this intro to Kakadu itinerary.
Day 1 - Drive to Kakadu
Drive about 3 hours from Darwin on the Arnhem Highway to the small township of Jabiru, within Kakadu National Park. Stay at the famous Croc Hotel (the hotel is shaped like a croc from an aerial view) or at any other accommodation in the town of Jabiru.
MARAWUDDI ARTS CENTRE
Visit a vibrant art gallery showcasing authentic Aboriginal artwork from across Kakadu and West Arnhemland.
CAHILL'S CROSSING
Cross this croc-infested river if you dare. Otherwise, just bite your fingernails and see how many crocs you can spot from the viewing platform. They say for every crocodile you can see, there are probably another five lurking somewhere underwater. This is a video my friend took from Cahill's Crossing:
ABORIGINAL ROCK ART AND SUNSET AT UBIRR
Ubirr is one of Australia's most famous Aboriginal rock art sites. The paintings depict creation ancestors such as the Rainbow Serpent, as well as native animals such as the Tasmanian Tiger, wallabies, barramundi, turtles which are about 2000 years old.
The lookout at the top of Ubirr Rock is also the most popular sunset spot at Kakadu. Picnic as the sun sets on the panoramic views of the Kakadu savannah. But don’t stay too late or camp at the nearby Merl Camping Ground because the mosquitoes descend on the area in swarms at dusk.
Day 2 - Jabiru to Cooinda
MAGUK GORGE
Stop by the Bowali Visitor's Centre to learn about landscapes and wildlife of Kakadu, then continue on for just over an hour to Maguk Gorge, a dazzling waterfall and crystal-clear plunge pool. The 2 km walk can be a bit muddy and rocky and while the pool is large enough to contain many people without feeling too crowded, there is limited seating area on the rocks.
If you're feeling adventurous, leave some time to take a steep uphill trail through the forest to the stunning rock pools at the top of the waterfall. There is much more room to lounge about at these upper pools. Veer left/upwards at the creek crossing. The trail is unmarked but is well-trodden so follow the trail.
Drive back about 40 minutes to check in at Cooinda Lodge which provides cabins, glamping, camping and caravan facilities. This is my favourite camping ground in the Top End because it has an indoor kitchen complete with fridge, microwave, toaster and BBQ. The restaurants, laundry/toilet/shower facilities also trick you into believing you're not really camping. If camping is not for you, there are rooms available and the facilities are still available in the caravan park.
SUNSET AT NOURLANGIE ROCK LOOKOUT
A quieter rock art gallery and another beautiful sunset location with views of the giant rock face cliffs of Kakadu. Both are in the same region but in separate locations. Arrive at least 1.5 hours before sunset so that you don't have to rush through the gallery or rush to see the sunset.
Day 3 - Cooinda to Motor Car Falls
YELLOW WATER BILLABONG SUNRISE CRUISE
Kakadu is bursting with native wildlife and an early morning cruise along the Yellow Water Billabong will give you a chance to see crocodiles, eagles, magpie geese and jabiru. Your cruise leader will point out the different fauna and flora and provide interesting stories about the billabong and its inhabitants. There is a courtesy shuttle bus to and from Cooinda Lodge and the cruise is offered at both sunrise and sunset, so you could do this on the evening of Day 2 instead of going to Nourlangie Rock if you don’t like an early start.
MOTOR CAR FALLS
These falls come to life in the wet season but if you're lucky, it still trickles in the dry season and the shallower waters are an eye-popping aquamarine. As I mentioned in my wet season report, the 4 km Yurmikmik walk leading to the falls is a highlight in itself. Aim to start the walk in the morning so that the sun is on the water when you arrive. There is a flat shady rock to perch upon and I could easily spend a whole day here.
Drive 3.5 hours back to Darwin via Pine Creek on the Stuart Highway, or if you have an extra day up your sleeve, stay take your time at Motor Car Falls and break up the drive by spending the night at the Pine Creek Hotel which is just over an hour's drive from Motor Car Falls and 2.5 hours from Darwin. Pine Creek is also one hour away from Katherine, so could go ahead to Katherine and continue to explore.
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